Exmoor Itinerary: How To Spend 5 Days In Exmoor [2024]

By Gemma Tedaldi | Published: 14th December 2020 | Updated: 29th November 2024

Matt and I recently spent a glorious 5 days exploring all there is to offer in Exmoor National Park. In partnership with Visit Exmoor, we well and truly walked, ate, and experienced some of the incredible things you can do in this mighty area. So without further ado, here is our guide on how to spend 5 days in Exmoor National Park.

📍 Day 1 – Arrival & West Luccombe

📍 Day 2 – Watersmeet, Lynton, Lynmouth & Valley of the Rocks

📍 Day 3 – Porlock & Porlock Weir

📍 Day 4 – Holnicote Estate & Selworthy

📍 Day 5 – Dunkery Beacon & Dunster

(Please know that although this trip was in partnership with Visit Exmoor all of our opinions are entirely our own).

Planning Your Trip? Use our favourite travel resources below:

Accommodation: We recommend Booking.com

Rental Car: We recommend Rentalcars.com

Travel Insurance: We recommend World Nomads

Flights: We recommend Kiwi.com

Tours: We recommend Get Your Guide

Exmoor Itinerary Map

Exmoor Itinerary: How To Spend 5 Days In Exmoor

Day 1 – Arrival & West Luccombe

Partly in Devon and partly in Somerset, Exmoor is a sight to behold from every way you look. Every viewpoint or gap in the hedge you come across will see you peeking at the landscape in front of you in awe. Even more so if you visit in the autumn as we did, with the colourful natural fireworks all ablaze!

After arriving at your accommodation and well and truly settling in for the next 5 days in Exmoor, (we can highly recommend Burrowhayes Farm), why not head out for a nearby walk deep in Doone Country.

The famous story of Lorna Doone, written by RD Blackmore, is set around Exmoor and in particular the hamlet of Malmesmead, which is only a short walk away from the County Gate viewpoint and walks. With dual views over Devon and West Somerset, County Gate has some of the most beautiful views going, as well as some rather friendly cows.

Day 2 – Watersmeet, Lynton, Lynmouth & Valley of the Rocks

After arriving yesterday today is all about exploring some of the coastline and rivers in Exmoor beginning at Watersmeet. Watersmeet is where the East Lyn and Hoar Oak Water meet, hence the name Watersmeet. With a forming fishing lodge now and a tearoom owned by the National Trust, located at the meeting point of the waters, it is a beautiful place to start the day.

From Watersmeet, you then want to then follow the Coleridge Way for 2.5 miles into Lynmouth. The route is obviously signed and regularly walked so you would struggle to get lost along here. From the rushing water of the river at the bottom of the valley, up into the moss-filled woodland above, this walk is like a little oasis in the heart of Exmoor.

Next up Lynton and Lynmouth! Often called ‘Little Switzerland’ Lynton and Lynmouth are twin towns on the coast of Exmoor. With Lynmouth sitting at the bay and Lynton 500ft above.

You can easily get between the two via a rather steep walk, (not recommended on the way up!), or by the Lynton and Lynmouth funicular cliff railway, the world’s highest and steepest fully water-powered railway. If that wasn’t enough to tickle your interest, it is also one of only three water-powered railways left in the world, who’d of thought you would find something that historic in Exmoor. You’ll be surprised just how quickly you can get up and down that cliffside on the railway.

Before hopping on the cliff railway though be sure to wander around Lynmouth’s tiny harbour, the quaint high street full of local independent shops, (the pasties are pretty good from The Bake House) and learn about the history of Rhenish Tower. It is a beautiful little town and a great place to grab a bite to eat and take in the coastal views.

After hopping aboard the cliff railway and exploring the top town of Lynton, head out along the Tarka Trail section of the South West Coast Path following along the coast to the Valley of the Rocks. This U-shaped valley and section of the coast is home to jagged cliffs and incredible rock formations as well as a few impressively balanced goats too!

Once you have explored as much of the Valley of the Rocks as you desire, head back the way you came to Lynton before either walking down to Lynmouth, (steep but great views), or taking the cliff railway again. Then in Lynmouth either follow the Coleridge Way back to Watersmeet or, if you want to mix it up, the Tarka Trail / Two Moors Way.

Now for something a bit different… Exmoor National Park is home to one of England’s Dark Sky areas, and Europe’s first International Dark Skies Reserve. So, what better way to experience it than with a stargazing tour with Wild About Exmoor?

Jennie and Malcolm are the most wonderful, friendly, and knowledgeable people you could ever meet and the perfect people to take you out in search of stars.

After meeting at a pub in Exford, we headed out on a walk to the surrounding countryside to find our spot for the next few hours ready for stargazing. Unfortunately, the clouds were not on our side, but we still got a few glimpses of various constellations and planets before heading back to their farmhouse for a warming cup of cocoa and some homemade treats! We would highly recommend a tour with Wild About Exmoor, be it a star gazing one or a day walk, so you can find them here.

Day 3 – Porlock & Porlock Weir

Today is another day of walking, but this time right from the campsite, following the Coleridge Way into Porlock. Porlock is situated within the Porlock Vale, an area filled with beautiful National Trust villages and wonderful walks, including the South West Coast Path and the Coleridge Way.

This section of the walk may only take in 4 miles of the Coleridge Ways 51 miles, but it gives you a wonderful taste of what is in store for the whole route.

Porlock Village is full of whitewashed thatched cottages, craft shops, pubs, and quaint cafes. It is also rather famous for its 1:4 steep main road to Lynmouth. It is one of the steepest main road hills in England and needless to say our little car did not enjoy the drive up!

Talking of cafes, be sure to stop at the Whortleberry Tea Rooms for some tea and scones with their famous Whortleberry jam. The surrounding Exmoor hills are where the whortleberries are found, (if they haven’t been eaten by the local wildlife!), and boy are they delicious.

Following a filling up of scones, head on out of Porlock through the woodlands following the Coleridge Way to Porlock Weir. This picturesque tiny port is the perfect place to spend a few hours fishing and watching the world go by on the pebble beach. Porlock Weir is also home to the Porlock Bay oysters, so if you are a fan of seafood, this is a stop for you.

After exploring Porlock Weir head back along the coast following the South West Coast Path, taking in the beautiful shingle ridge and eerie yet stunning Porlock Salt Marsh. This area of the coast was once home to thriving farmland but one too many times the high sea tides swept in creating a petrified forest and salt marsh. Pretty beautiful to walk through if not a little creepy!

During the high tides in the summer, you can also paddleboard and kayak through the marshland with one of the many local adventure companies.

As we hadn’t been so lucky with the clouds last night, we figured there was no harm in sitting out at the campsite and watching for the stars. We were in a dark sky area after all! After a few minutes we were so lucky that we did, we ended up seeing the Milky Way, numerous meteors, and Mars all from the side of our little tent!

Day 4 – Holnicote Estate & Selworthy

The 12,000-acre Holnicote Estate is somewhere you must visit during your 5 days in Exmoor. There are many walks you can go on throughout the estate, with coastal climbs, moorland meanders, and wonderful woodlands.

However, one place that you should visit on the estate is Selworthy Village. Another of Exmoor’s postcard-perfect villages, filled with yellow-painted thatched cottages and stunning views.

Park up near the beautiful Selworthy Grade I listed church, which is well worth a wander around itself, then head up the footpaths through the woodland onto the Selworthy Beacon circular walk. On the way through the woodland keep an eye out for the Iron Age enclosure also known as Bury Castle.

There is also a historic Memorial Hut near the top of the beacon. Also known as the Wind and Weather Hut, this shelter was built as a memorial to Sir Thomas Dyke Acland and has wonderful poems inscribed on each side. Once at the top, 306 metres above sea level, you can see for miles around… Assuming it is a clear day!

After the walk back down into Selworthy village, stop in the Periwinkle Tea Rooms. You simply must try the lemon curd scones and tomato & basil scones. They go down really well with a pot of tea! They’ve been given the Tea Council Award of excellence multiple times so why not stop by after a walk in the estate?

Throughout your walk be sure to keep an eye out for the famous Exmoor ponies and red deer. If you visit in the autumn as we did, you will most probably hear the deer before you see them as it is rutting season!

Day 5 – Dunkery Beacon & Dunster

After packing up the tent, camper, or wherever you have stayed, start off the day by driving up to Dunkery Beacon for a breakfast with a view! At 519m above sea level, Dunkery Beacon is the highest point in Exmoor. If you are visiting on a clear day you can see as far as Dartmoor, the Mendips, and Wales.

Next up drive a short way along the coast for a few hours exploring the beautifully preserved medieval village of Dunster. With a castle, tower on a hill, and historic main street it’s the perfect place to end a trip in Exmoor.

Dunster Castle, which is now owned by the National Trust, looks down over the historical main high street and Yarn Market. With beautiful gardens, woodland walks and a working windmill surrounding the castle, the history of the 1000-year-old medieval home is somewhere you can easily spend a few hours with the family.

After all that exploring head to Locks Tea Room on the high street for some of the best pie and coffee for miles around! The cake is rather good too…

After filling your boots with pie, head on out the other side of the village and up to Conygar Tower. This 3-storey Grade II listed folly has some of the most beautiful views over Dunster going, it’s also not very well known, so you can easily walk up and back without seeing a soul!

Planning your own trip to Exmoor National Park? Make sure you check out our Travelling Tedaldi Amazon Store Travel Guides for all your guidebooks and maps. (We’ve done the hard work for you and linked all the things we used to plan our trip!)

Where else to visit in Exmoor

If you are thinking about making your trip a little longer then why not head further west to Combe Martin with Britain’s tallest sea cliffs, Watermouth Cove and its castle, and Ilfracombe’s pretty seafront? We previously visited these beautiful locations on a separate trip to North Devon, but you could easily add them to our 5 days in Exmoor itinerary.

Check out our trip to that area of Exmoor and North Devon here.

Or you could head further inland to the very centre of Exmoor and explore more of the valleys and beacons that it is so well known for.

Where to Stay in Exmoor

For the duration of our trip, we stayed at Burrowhayes Farm, a campsite perfect for those who prefer to stay in something a bit warmer. There are static homes and spaces for caravans, as well as plenty of room for campervans and for the brave, (or silly at this time of year!), tents. We of course opted for the tent, we wanted to have the best chance we could at seeing the famous dark skies!

Another thing to note is that you can pre-order fresh croissants for breakfast each morning, (which are so good!), so if you fancy not making breakfast one day, you are on to a winner at Burrowhayes.

If you don’t fancy camping however there are plenty of other accommodation options in nearby Porlock. Check out the map below, Booking.com, or Expedia UK for some of the best places to stay.

Exmoor Itinerary: How To Spend 5 Days In Exmoor FAQs

Why visit Exmoor National Park?

Why not visit Exmoor National Park!

National Parks throughout the world are known for being stunning and Exmoor is no exception. From the coastal walks to the hidden valleys and quaint tea rooms in every village, there is so much to see and explore. There are also some rather cute Exmoor ponies that roam free…

When is the best time to visit Exmoor?

We visited during the autumn which is the perfect time to see the leaf colours coming through and the area with fewer tourists. It is also when Exmoor holds their annual Dark Skies Festival so it’s a win-win. That being said, it is a beautiful place to visit year-round, with snowy beacons tops in the winter, new life in the spring, and wonderful beaches in the summer.

How do you get to Exmoor?

Exmoor is located on the border between the counties of Somerset and Devon and it is really easy to get to from across the UK.

By car – Take the M5 south to either junctions 23 or 24 for east Exmoor then the A39, or junction 27 then the A361 for west Exmoor.

By coach/bus – Travel on the National Express to either Barnstaple, Bridgwater, Taunton or Tiverton then catch local buses into the larger villages in Exmoor.

By train – Exmoor is less than 2 hours by train from London and Birmingham so you can travel to Bridgwater, Taunton or Tiverton Parkway easily. You then will have to take onward travel by bus/taxi.

By air – The nearest airports are in Bristol and Exeter, so you will have to either hire a car or take public transport from these locations to Exmoor.

What is the best way to get around Exmoor?

The best way to get around Exmoor is by car / public transport and then walking. If you have a car you can easily get to places that not all the day trip tourists will go to and then do a loop walk of two from there. We like to base ourselves in one area then walk to various locations from there over the course of a few days. There is public transport throughout Exmoor but they can be much slower than if travelling under your own steam.

How many days do you need in Exmoor?

We spent 5 days in Exmoor on this trip, but we have previously visited other parts of Exmoor over a series of long weekends. Honestly, you could easily spend a month here just walking and enjoying the scenery! Spending 5 days to a week is a great place to start though and will most definitely have you dreaming of the day you can come back.

What is the most beautiful part of Exmoor?

Everywhere in Exmoor is stunning, however we found that the areas around the coastline, like Porlock Salt Marsh and Valley of the Rocks, were particularly beautiful. Especially in the autumn when the bracken all turns wonderful shades of orange. Watersmeet is also rather special as well.

Is Exmoor worth visiting?

100% yes, Exmoor is worth visiting! Not only does it have a unique landscape with both inland and coastal areas to discover, but it is also one of the quieter UK National Parks to visit too. We’ve visited quite a few National Parks throughout the UK and Exmoor is definitely one of our favourites.

Is Exmoor more in Devon or Somerset?

Exmoor National Park is roughly 29% in North Devon and 71% in Somerset, making it more in Somerset than in Devon.

Where is the best place to see Exmoor ponies?

One of the best places too see the Exmoor ponies is near Porlock Hill or Molland Moor, although that isn’t a guarantee as the ponies are free-roaming. However, if you are driving or walking anywhere across the moors you have a high likelihood of seeing them. If you want a guaranteed sighting of an Exmoor pony, and to learn a bit about them at the same time, then we recommend heading to the Exmoor Pony Centre at Ashwick.

Conclusion: Exmoor Itinerary: How To Spend 5 Days in Exmoor

You could easily spend a few weeks exploring what Exmoor National Park has to offer, so use our 5 days in Exmoor itinerary as a base for planning your own trip. Let us know below if there are any stops you would add or would suggest for any future trips we take there!

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Gemma (i.e The Travelling Tedaldi)

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Gemma Tedaldi

Gemma is the owner and author of The Travelling Tedaldi, a travel blog helping travellers to discover the best road trips and travel itineraries throughout the UK and Europe. When she isn’t writing about her favourite travel destinations, she can often be found out exploring local hikes or planning future trips.